The Wavendon Arms....Its Grate!
The Wavendon Arms is a million miles away from the traditional pub of old.Spit and sawdust has been exchanged for style and spotlights, weary pint-wielding regulars for bright young things waving glasses of blush wine.
There are those who will mourn the loss of that quintessentially English institution, of course. There is something strangely comforting about drinkers marking time in the corner of a smoky bar, standing, pint in hand, chewing over the everyday as the years march by.
It seems those halycon years are almost done. From next summer, the miasma of smoke will lift from England's pubs and I suspect you will see smokers, right hand twitching, yearning towards the door. Or maybe they will just stay at home wearing a rebellious smile, chain-smoking manically, muttering about Big Brother and refusing to be controlled.
The newly-opened Wavenden Arms embraces this brave new world and offer a very different experience to the building's former incarnation as The Leathern Bottel.
The Leathern Bottel was known for bawdy nights of folk music, a laid back ambiance and, a world ago, for free roast potatoes, handed round by the landlord on a Sunday afternoon. Dating back to 1851, the pub was home to The Oddfellows, a friendly society who, you imagine, might not quite fit in with the new look establishment. For some reason, I picture them supping Real Ale, arguing the issues of the day while sporting a slightly worn assortment of comfortable knitwear.
The Wavendon Arms is no place for holey sweaters. The tides of change have swept through the building, washing away the dingy corners and sticky floors. Now there are leather sofas for comfy slumping, an impressive log burning hearth and a sense of light and space and 'now'.
There are enticingly intimate corners for those who want to pass by unnoticed and huge velour banquettes, perfect for dining and chatting the night away with friends.
Outside, a large terrace, complete with warming log fire is a haven away from the madding crowd as well as a sanctuary for smokers.
After a drink at the bar, we adjourned to the main dining area to peruse the menu. The Wavendon Arms offers a pleasing mixture of modern bites to share as a group (baked Camembert and rustic bread, for example, or flatbreads with taramasalta, hummus, tatziki, olives and feta cheese), plus a selection of salads, stone fired pizzas, pasta dishes and more ambitious dishes from the stove, grill and rotisserie.
There is a pleasing global flavour; Greece, Italy, Morocco, France plus pure comfort food in the snazzed-up guise of Leffe battered haddock, tartare sauce, pea puree and chips and steak burger with Swiss cheese, bacon, relish and frites.
There are daily specials in addition to the fixed menu, including mouthwatering scallops and other seasonal favourites to tempt your tastebuds.
My friend, an asparagus junkie, went for the stalks with Parma ham, egg and hollandaise sauce, a well-judged combination of flavours. My chilli-crusted squid with pineapple and chilli salsa was a wee bit chewy and I would have preferred the salsa to be the 'dippy' kind, but the flavours were strong and true.
My main course, Morrocan lamb rump with apricot couscous and citrus jus was an explosion of flavours, a real hit. The salmon with beef tomato , basil pesto and buttered potatoes (which my friend swapped for salad) also went down a treat.
Puddings, Eaton Mess and chocolate fondant, were, as Michael Winner would say, historic, the Mess a irresistible blend of strawberries, meringues and double cream, the fondant a heavenly melting concoction.
It's a long way from free roast potatoes but sometimes a little bit of change can be a beautiful thing......
For bookings, call MK 584277.
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Weather for Milton Keynes
Friday 25 May 2012
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